Matthias Scherer

My TOP 100   ICE CLIMBS 

Water in its frozen state is for sure the element which inspired and challenged me the most in my life.

I started water ice climbing in winter 1993. Back then I ventured on little frozen steps. I climbed with one classic piolet and one ice hammer. I wore touring ski boots and classic 12 point crampons with straps. Setting screws was a hairy business but it was possible to set them already free. Wearing big gloves was normal, so I had huge mittens and even with leashes I was always pumped. The big evolution in the ice climbing material over the last decade changed only two things - you can climb faster and you can do crazier lines. The ice in its true, unforgiving and very changeable character will always remain the same: a fantastic challenge!!!

Below you will find the list of my favorite ice climbs on frozen water falls. Of course a lot of them are in the higher grade and objectively very dangerous but most important they all have been great experiences and I would not miss one memory - even when some are partly very painfully. I like to thank my partner Tanja and also her twin sister Heike for many unforgettable days on the ice.

So here my 100 Top ice falls out of the over 500 I have done - the list will be for sure updated in the future...

nb.: the list is my subjective impression of beauty - the falls are NOT listed in a rank of difficulty

 

1   Svartberg Fall, Gudvangen, Norway

2   Juste une illusion, Gramusat, France   

3   Rappelle toi que tu es un homme, Vallee du Couleau, France  video

4   Kjerrskredkvelven, Gudvangen, Norway

5   Les Misérables, Icefields Parkway, Canada  video

6   Finnkona, Senja, Norway

7    Crack Baby, Breitwangen, Switzerland

8   Rainbow Serpent, Ghost Valley, Canada   video

9    Stormbringer, Eidfjord, Norway

10    Fjåene Fossen, Eidfjord Norway

11    The Replicant, Trophy Wall, Canada

12    Lipton, Rjukan, Norway   video

13    Rapelle toi que tu es un gnome, Vallee du Rabioux, France

14   Buon Compleanno, Gondo, Switzerland

15   Eisgeist, Bletterbach, Italy

16  Seebenseefall, Ehrwald, Austria

17  Shooting Star, Icefields Parkway, Canada     video

18  Hydnefossen, Hemsedal, Norway      video

19  Gramusat directe, Gramusat, France

20  French Reality, Stanley Headwall, Canada

21  Hard Ice Direct, Cogne, Italy

22  Mehr Power durch sportliche Aufkleber, Kandersteg, Switzerland

23  Reise Integral, Kandersteg, Swtizerland

24  Shiva Lingam, Argentiere, France

25  Stortstampen Pillars, Bardujord, Norway

26  Nemesis, Stanley Headwall, Canada

27  Repentance, Cogne, Italy    so far 46 ascents  

28  Killer Pillar, Stanley Headwall, Canada

29  Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis, Canada   video

30  Kerze, Pinistal, Austria     

31   Männer ohne Nerven Super Direct, Pinistal, Austria     

32   Gros Lard, Entre les Aigues, France

33  Rübezahl, Kandersteg, Switzerland

34   Icelander, Argentiere, France

35  Mikado, Rovenaud, Italy

36  Prinz Eisenherz, Zillertal, Austria   

37  Azimut Brutal, Oisans, France

38  Heimdal, Valtournenche, Italy

39  Virtual Reality, Icefields Parkway, Canada  

40  Frenesie Pascal, Argentiere, France

41  Cascade du Veisivi, Val d'Herens, Switzerland

42  Cadeau Surprise, Maurienne, France

43  Gouter des Généraux, Maurienne, France

44  Glacenost, Maurienne, France

45  Esmeralda, Freissiniere, France

46  Nuit blanche, Argentiere, France

47  Crash, Storm Mountain, Canada

48  Cascata di Planaval, Val Grisenche, Italy

49  Pattinaggio Direct, Cogne, Italy

50  Vekter, Utladalen, Norway

51  Flågbekken, Troms, Norway  

52  Oh le Tabernac, Icefields Parkway, Canada

53  Tradimento Direct, Cogne, Italy     video

54  Cascade du Telephérique, Zinal, Switzerland

55  Haizähne, Kandersteg, Switzerland

56  Sacre Bleu, Trophy Wall, Canada

57  Sorcerer, Ghost Valley, Canada

58  Blue Magic, Kandersteg, Switzerland

59  Ricamo, Cogne, Italy

60  Pilat, Gardena Valley, Italy   video

61  Patry Destra Super Direct, Cogne, Italy

62  (In)Achevée Conception, Cogne, Italy    video

63  Zauberflöte, Lunga Valley, Italy  video

64  La Linea, Renkfälle, Austria

65  Cascade Difficile, Trient, Switzerland

66  Cold Couloir integral, Cogne, Italy  video

67  Beau Voyage, Chichin, France

68  Cascade des Violins, Freissiniere, France   video

69  Les Chasseurs de Glace, Mauvoisin, Switzerland   video

70  Dancing with Chaos, Icefields Parkway, Canada

71  Hängende Gärten, Lüsens, Austria

72 Titanic, Gondo, Switzerland

73  Cosmic Messenger, Icefields Parkway, Canada

74  Weeping Wall Central Pillar, Icefields Parkway, Canada

75  Haugsfossen, Rjukan, Norway

76  Lau Bij, Cogne, Italy   video

77  Desperados, Argentiere, France

78  Candela dell' aqua minerale, Morgex, Italy   video

79 Juvsöyla, Rjukan, Norway

80 Clair de lunule, Fournel, France

81  Altro volto del pianeta, Val d'Argentera, Italy

82  Huit Mb, Argentiere, France

83  Kitty Hawk, Nordegg, Canada

84 Nasty Habits, Icefields Parkway, Canada

85  Pilsner Pillar, Field, Canada

86 Cascade du Dard, Sixt, France

87 Trip in the Night, Valsavarenche, Italy

88 Glücksritter, Adelboden, Switzerland

89 Havanna, Pitztal, Austria    

90 Impatience, Freissiniere, France

91  Monsterline, Pitztal, Austria

92 Cascade Chantriaux, Freissiniere, France

93  Stella Artice, Cogne, Italy

94  Das Problem, Obergricht, Austria

95  Doccia Fredda, Cogne, Italy

96  Cousin Hubert, Freissiniere, France

97  Délicados, Fournel, France

98  Double Scotch, Fournel, France

99 Murchsion Falls, Icefields Parkway, Canada

100 Bourgeau Left, Sunshine, Canada

  video

 

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THE  TOP 100 IN PICTURES 

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