My TOP 100 ICE CLIMBS
Water in its frozen state is for sure the element which inspired and challenged me the most in my life.
I started water ice climbing in winter 1993. Back then I ventured on little frozen steps. I climbed with one classic piolet and one ice hammer. I wore touring ski boots and classic 12 point crampons with straps. Setting screws was a hairy business but it was possible to set them already free. Wearing big gloves was normal, so I had huge mittens and even with leashes I was always pumped. The big evolution in the ice climbing material over the last decade changed only two things - you can climb faster and you can do crazier lines. The ice in its true, unforgiving and very changeable character will always remain the same: a fantastic challenge!!!
Below you will find the list of my favorite ice climbs on frozen water falls. Of course a lot of them are in the higher grade and objectively very dangerous but most important they all have been great experiences and I would not miss one memory - even if some are sometimes very painful. I like to thank my partner Tanja and also her twin sister Heike for many unforgettable days on the ice.
So here my 100 Top ice falls out of the over 1000 I have done - the list will be for sure updated in the future...
nb.: the list is my subjective impression of beauty - the falls are NOT listed in a rank of difficulty
1 Svartberg Fall, Gudvangen, Norway - recently named also ‘Middagshovdenfossen’ season fa 2016
2 Kjerrskredkvelven, Gudvangen, Norway
3 Vettisfossen, Utladalen, Norway
4 Rappelle toi que tu es un homme, Vallee du Couleau, France video
5 Juste une illusion, Gramusat, France
6 Finnkona, Senja, Norway two ascents 2017 & 2024
7 Les Misérables, Icefields Parkway, Canada viseason fa 2017
8 Silmarillion direct, Storm Creek, Canada
9 Crack Baby, Breitwangen, Switzerland
10 Le Mulot, Rivière Saint Marguerite, Québec
11 Fearful Symmetry, Ghost Valley, Canada season fa 2019
12 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost Valley, Canada season fa 2012
13 Stormbringer, Eidfjord, Norway fa 2015
14 Skredbekken direct, Sørdalen, Norway season fa 2022 of the direct pillar
15 Fjåene Fossen, Eidfjord, Norway season fa 2015
16 The Replicant, Trophy Wall, Canada
17 Patience, Megève Cote 2000, France
18 Lipton, Rjukan, Norway video
19 Rapelle toi que tu es un gnome, Vallee du Rabioux, France
20 Buon Compleanno, Gondo, Switzerland
21 Eisgeist, Bletterbach, Italy
22 The Pencil, Icefields Parkway, Canada season fa 2019
23 La Goutte, Banff, Canada season fa 2023
24 Seebenseefall, Ehrwald, Austria season fa 2013
25 Shooting Star, Icefields Parkway, Canada two ascents 2012 & 2017 video
26 Hydnefossen, Hemsedal, Norway vide4 ascents on different lines so far : 2012, 2016, 2022, 2024 mostly season fa’s
27 Gramusat directe, Gramusat, France
28 The day after the vacances of Monsieur Hulot, Stanley Headwall, Canada season fa 2023
29 Nightmare on Wolf Street, Stanley Headwall, Canada
30 French Reality, Stanley Headwall, Canada 4 ascents so far : 2008, 2015, 2019, 2024
31 Hard Ice Direct, Cogne, Italy so far 4 ascents: 2005, 2009, 2014, 2015
32 Mehr Power durch sportliche Aufkleber, Kandersteg, Switzerland
33 Reise Integral, Kandersteg, Swtizerland
34 Shiva Lingam, Argentiere, France
35 Stortstampen Pillars, Bardujord, Norway so far 4 ASCENTS : 2018, 2019, 2020, 2023 mostly season fa’s
36 Nemesis, Stanley Headwall, Canada so far 14 ASCENTS since 2008 - all in November or earlier… including quite a bit of season fa’s
37 Repentance, Cogne, Italy so far 71 ASCENTS - Fast Ascent in February 2018: 4h18min for the full line to the Plateau money and the approach from the Parking in Valnontey and back again
38 La Loutre, Malbaie, Québec
39 Killer Pillar, Stanley Headwall, Canada two ascents 2008 & 2019
40 Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis, Canada - so far 12 ascents video
41 Kerze, Pinistal, Austria
42 Speedy Gonzales, Rivière Saint Marguerite, Québec
43 Männer ohne Nerven Super Direct, Pinistal, Austria
44 Gros Lard, Entre les Aigues, France
45 Rübezahl, Kandersteg, Switzerland
46 Icelander, Argentiere, France
47 Mikado, Rovenaud, Italy
48 Prinz Eisenherz, Zillertal, Austria
49 Azimut Brutal, Oisans, France
50 Heimdal, Valtournenche, Italy
51 Suffer Machine, Stanley Headwall, Canada - two ascents November 2022 the classic one and in November 2025 the right variation without bolts
52 Virtual Reality, Icefields Parkway, Canada - so far 6 ascents - 2012, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2023, 2024, 2025 mostly season fa’s
53 Frenesie Pascal, Argentiere, France
54 Pomme d’Or, Malbaie, Québec
55 Rubbenbekken, Sørdalen, Norway so far 7 Ascents since 2018
56 Cadeau Surprise, Maurienne, France
57 Gouter des Généraux, Maurienne, France
58 Glacenost, Maurienne, France
59 Esmeralda, Freissiniere, France
60 Nuit blanche, Argentiere, France
61 Crash, Storm Creek Headwall, Canada
62 Cascata di Planaval, Val Grisenche, Italy
63 Pattinaggio Direct, Cogne, Italy impossible to exactly determine all the ascents I have done of this line - including the mixed variations it will surely be more than 20 times…
64 Vekter, Utladalen, Norway
65 Flågbekken, Troms, Norway so far 16 Ascents since 2018
66 Oh le Tabernac, Icefields Parkway, Canada
67 Tradimento Direct, Cogne, Italy videoit’s falling down so quickly - therefore only 4 ascents: 2005, 2009,2015, 2021
68 Søylefossen, Spansdalen, Norway
69 Haizähne, Kandersteg, Switzerland
70 Sacre Bleu, Trophy Wall, Canada
71 In the spirit of crazy horse, Mount Wilson, Canada
72 Sorcerer, Ghost Valley, Canada
73 Blue Magic, Kandersteg, Switzerland
74 Ricamo, Cogne, Italy
75 Pilat, Gardena Valley, Italy video
76 Patry Destra Super Direct, Cogne, Italy
77 (In)Achevée Conception, Cogne, Italy video
78 Zauberflöte, Lunga Valley, Italy video
79 La Linea, Renkfälle, Austria
80 Hydrophobia, Ghost, Canada
81 Pilier Simon-Proulx Variation, Rivière Sait Marguerite, Québec
82 Cold Couloir integral, Cogne, Italy video
83 Beau Voyage, Chichin, France
84 Cascade des Violins, Freissiniere, France video
85 Les Chasseurs de Glace, Mauvoisin, Switzerland video
86 Ice T, upper weeping wall - Icefields Parkway, Canada, December 2024
87 Dancing with Chaos, Icefields Parkway, Canada
88 Hängende Gärten, Lüsens, Austria
89 Titanic, Gondo, Switzerland
90 Cascade du Veisivi, Val d'Herens, Switzerland
91 Weeping Wall Central Pillar, Icefields Parkway, Canada
92 Haugsfossen, Rjukan, Norway
93 Lau Bij, Cogne, Italy - impossible to remember all the ascents, but for sure far more than 30….eo
94 Desperados, Argentiere, France
95 Candela dell' aqua minerale, Morgex, Italy video
96 Juvsøyla, Rjukan, Norway so far 19 Ascents since 2012
97 Clair de lunule, Fournel, France
98 Altro volto del pianeta, Val d'Argentera, Italy
99 Rubbsnyten, Sørdalen, Norway
100 Nasty Habits, Icefields Parkway, Canada
APPENDIX
The following climbs are not more in the top 100’s ( they just fell out and had to make place to new additions) but offer some good climbing - this appendix is by no means complete because it would crash the volume of this page if I would list up all the lines I have done…
100.1 Kitty Hawk, Nordegg, Canada
100.2 Buddha Nature DIRECT, Storm Creek Headwall, Canada season fa 2023
100.3 Pilsner Pillar, Field, Canada
100.4 Cascade du Dard, Sixt, France
100.5 Trip in the Night, Valsavarenche, Italy
100.6 Thriller, Gressoney, Italy
100.7 Havanna, Pitztal, Austria
100.8 Impatience, Freissiniere, France
100.9 Monsterline, Pitztal, Austria
100.10 Cascade Chantriaux, Freissiniere, France
100.11 Stella Artice, Cogne, Italy - impossible to remember all the ascents but for sure more than 30…
100.12 Das Problem, Obergricht, Austria
100.13 Murchsion Falls, Icefields Parkway, Canada
100.14 Bourgeau Left, Sunshine, Canada
